Method of obtaining measurements for making apparel to individual measurement



y 1935. E. H. OHLSSON 2,006,774

METHQD 0F OBTAINING MEASUREMENTS FOR MAKING APPAREL TO INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENT Filed April 1'7, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet l July 2, 1935. E H H ON 2,006,774

METHOD OF OBTAINING MEASUREMENTS FOR MAKING APPAREL TO INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENT Filed April 17, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 f /O /3 JJ directly onto a work-piece. piece the article of apparel, or a pattern for Patented July 2, 1935 METHOD OF OBTAINING MEASUREMENTS FOR MAKING APPAREL TO INDIVIDUAL MEASUREMENT Edvin Harry Ohlsson, Malmo, Sweden In Sweden March 14, 1933 Application April 17, 1933, Serial No. 666,631

3 Claims.

This invention relates to a new and useful method in manufacturing articles of apparel to the individual measure.

The object of the invention is to provide a method by which it is made possible to obtain a very perfect fit without trying the clothes on during the process of manufacture and irrespective of who made the measuring.

According to known methods of manufacturing articles of apparel to individual measure without trying them on, the cutter seldom or never gets an opportunity of looking at the purchasers, and this is true particularly when the measuring is performed by some other person than the cutter.

The latter one cannot, guided by the customary measures only, form a reliable apprehension of the shape and carriage of the purchaser in question, for instance, whether the carriage of the purchaser is a normal one, or bent forwards, or backwards, whether one of his shoulders is lower than the other one, whether the back line and the side lines are more or less curved, whether one of the arms is shorter than the other one etc.

According to the present invention the cutter, during the whole cutting out procedure, has at his disposal an exact full size reproduction of the purchaser in two projections at right angles to each other, and from said reproductions he may take measures to amplify the measuring made on the purchaser himself. The fact is that, according to the invention, the usual measuring is combined with photographing the purchaser in a predetermined manner and, when needed, with a subsequent full size reproduction by means of a projector upon a screen which is preferably cross-ruled, and further combined with a transfor of measures from the full size reproductions From said worksaid article, is produced in accordance with the measures obtained from. the reproductions in combination with the measuring of the purchaser himself. Thus the cutter, when cutting out the article of apparel in question, or when drafting the pattern for said article, gets an opportunity of forming, from the exact full size reproductions, a true conception of the constitution of the purchaser, and of transferring from said reproductions to the work-piece amplifying measures of a great value to the cutting out of the article of apparel in order to make said article an excellent fit to the purchaser.

Reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings which illustrate by way of example a preferable embodiment of the invention and in which:

Fig. 1' shows diagrammatically a plan View of the photographic structure,

Figs. 2 and3 show'a front View of the light cage forming part of said structureand with a man in the different photographing positions,

Fig. 4 shows diagrammatically a plan view of the cameraemployed, and

Fig. 5 shows the screen used when projecting the photographs; f

As an expedient in the photographic procedure a cage I open at the front is'employed, in which lamps 2 are provided for the purpose of obtaining a sufficient li ht. The inside of thecage is white of color, or has some other bright color. At the bottom of the cage there is a plate 3 mov-- able through an angle of about a vertical shaft 4 and provided with an upwardly projecting rib 5 at one edge and another rib .6 perpendicular to the rib 5 and dividing the plate into two equal parts and passing right above the shaft 4.

, In the'middle of the-rear wall of the cage there isa dark vertical line I and furthermore two marks 8 are provided within the cage at a distance of, for instance, exactly lmetre from each other. Said marks v8 may comprise narrow slots arranged transversely to each other in the end wall of tubular casings enclosing lamps and provided upon a tube 9 or the like within the cage. The marks 8 are positioned in a vertical plane containing the axis of the shaft 4 and parallel to the rear wall of the cage.

At a suitable distance in front of the cage 2. camera it) is placed upon a stand at about half a mans height, and the position and adjustment of said camera, once fixed, "are not to be changed and, therefore, anyone is able to make the photo'- graphingl The camera is, for instance, adapted for fiat filmsinjsize 8 by 'S'centimetres andis constructed in such a manner as to permit exposure of only half the film at a time. To thisend the opening I I (Fig. 4) provided in the rear wall of the camera corresponds to half the width of the film only, and the film carrier [2 is adapted to be laterally displaced Within a guide l3 so as to enable one half of the film to be exposed when the film carrier is moved to one side, the other half of the film being exposed when the film carrier is moved to the other side.

The purchaser, when ordering an article of apparel, a suit or the like, is subjected to the usual measuring and furthermore he is photographed in two positions beside each other upon the same film. To that end the purchaser takes 7 his stand within the cage l upon the plate 3' first, for instance, in the position shown in Fig.

tion of the purchaser. stance a common'projecting apparatus at his disyersely to each'other of the purchaser.

2while the first exposure is effected, the film carrier being displaced towards one side. Then the plate 3 is moved through an angle of 90 so as to place the purchaser in the position shown in Fig. 3 whereupon the-second exposure is effected, the film carrier being displaced, towards the other side. Thus two images of the purchaser are obtained at the side of each otheruponthe film, one of said images showing a front view and the other showing aside view. The ribs 5 and 6 of the plate 3 have for their object to secure a predetermined position of the purchaser upon the .plate approximately right above. the shaft of said plate, the purchaser placing his heels in engagement with said ribs and assuming a, natural and easy bearing, his arms hanging loosely along the sides.

, The film, when developed and copied, accompanies the order note to the tailoring department together with the copy and the statement of measurement and from the photographs the cutter is able to form a conception of the. constitu- He always has for inexactly 1 metre, permit of anaccurate control of thefcorrect reproduction of the images in full size. Therefore, the cutter is enabled to transfer, with 'a high degree of accurateness, the measures of, for instance, the widthof the shoulders,

the length of the arms, the'length and width 7 of the neck, the position of thelwaist, 'etc., di-

rectly from the reproductions, onto the workv,piece,and during the cuttingout procedure the "cutter, has the reproductions showing the bodily I fstructure ofthe purchaser before him and can cut his cloth accordinglyj The squares of the screen assist greatly in this task, said squares making it possible to take correct measures directly from the reproductions and facilitating,

the disclosure and measurement "of any asymmetry which may exist in the constitution of the purchaser, asfor instance the extent to which one shoulder is lowe'r'than the other shoulder, or to what extent the shape of one shoulder differs from the shape of the other shoulder, or 'how much longer one arm is than the other one, etc., so as to permit of due attention beingfpaid to saidfea'tures the manufacture of the article of apparel.

It has been found that it is possible, by this method and without trying the article of apparel on, to obtain results quite equal to those obtained 7 by repeatedly trying the article on. The fact is that, by the method described, it'is possible to pay due attention as early in the, process of making the suit as the cutting out. of the cloth, to all the circumstances which, otherwise, could not be considered until-the article of apparel in question has been cut out and-is ready for the first try on. It is evident that, according to the invention, the cutter gains the great advantage of permanently having the purchaser before him, so to speak, whereby the'cutter is not left to rely upon his ownrecollection of the measuring but is enabled, if desired, to take amplifying measures in a convenient, accurate and reliable manner. 7

In reality,it is no longer necessary in order to manufacture a suit or the like of an excellent fit that the cutter himself ever saw the purchaser in' person, and accordingly the cutter need not be.

interrupted in his work by 'measurings, but said measurings and the amplifying photographic procedures may beaccomplished'by someone'else places than the tailoring'department.

What I claimand desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-

1. In manufacturing articles of apparel, such as gentlemens suits, tothe individual measure, the method comprising photographing the purchaser in two positions of the purchaser perpendicular to each other the two photographic images being arranged by the side of each other on the same film, projecting said film so as to and saidprocedures may be effected at other make the twoimages of. the purchaser appear being measured from two convenient angles on the same film, along with an object of known length, projecting the images on said filmo nto a scanning screen in such manner that the length r of the projected image of the object of known length is the same as its original length, and

taking measurements directly from the projected images.

3. The method of taking measurements for clothing, comprising photographing the person being measured from two convenient angles on the same film, along with an object of known length, projecting the images on said film onto a 1 scanning screen having a plurality of crossruled squares of fixed length, in such manner that the length of the projected image of the object of known length isthesame .as its original length, and'taking measurements directly from the images projected on the screen by counting 1 the number of cross-ruled squares. V

EDVIN HARRY V OHLSSON. V 

